Tamme Fall 2025

At first glance, the Tamme Fall 2025 collection seems straightforward — a clean progression from sharp suiting into slouched streetwear and back again. But it’s in the subversion of convention, the quietly unsettling twists, that this collection stands out.

Ties are perhaps the most telling detail: not knotted but loosely slung, pulled off-center, tucked into breast pockets, or reimagined in contrast fabrics and punctuated with metal studs. Shirt sleeves hang long and exaggerated, while jacket cuffs are upturned to reveal intentionally raw, askew linings. Blazers are cut with blink-and-you’ll-miss-them welt pockets, and waistbands are bent and curled, folding over. Seams are left frayed and trailing, what appears to be a spray-painted symbol on a Munsell Red knit top is actually intricate intarsia.

The show’s midpoint leans heavily into utility and streetwear. Cargo pockets, heavy zippers, hoods, and oversized flap details give garments a function-forward feel. A grungy check shirt and a washed purple denim set underscore the collection’s rawer, more grounded side.

But it’s the bookending looks that leave the strongest impression. The opener: a black suit, gloved hands, and stark white shirt cuffs peeking out beneath sleeves that are folded back to expose deliberately uneven contrast lining. The eye is drawn both to the sleeve cuffs and also diagonally across the blazer thanks to the skewed welt flap pocket on one side and the panel of fabric on the other that – along with its buttons – holds the blazer closed. It’s unsettling because it’s deliberate.

The final look mirrors the first: a sharply tailored black trench coat, complete with a built-in cummerbund, styled to evoke the calculated menace of a film villain. The villain, however, is composed. He’s precise. And that’s what makes him unsettling.

Tamme Fall 2025 proves that restraint and chaos can coexist: nothing is where you expect it to be, but everything is exactly where it should be.

The Tamme Fall 2025 collection was presented at Tokyo Fashion Week on March 22nd, 2025. Photography by Koji Shimamura for Tamme; images courtesy of Tamme.

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