Balmung Spring 2025

For the Balmung Spring 2025 collection presented at Tokyo Fashion Week, designer Hachi (full name Ryuichi Shiroshita) was thinking about new modes of self-expression, with the current era defined by turning inward rather than out, and having a dialogue with the self instead of with others. This act, “Tsubuyaki 呟き (= tweet)”, is a personal diary of sorts, a record of inner thoughts, and reflects a shift in communication styles.

Hachi presents a gender-neutral, androgynous collection with details including lines, stitch work, and layers of fabric in patchwork style. Key materials are denim and aluminium fabric, the latter giving a modern feel in a collection that has an overall Retro-Y2K feel to it.

The key colors in Balmung Spring 2025 are grey, neon yellow and light blue, with plenty of colourblocking for maximum contrast. Camouflage appears on trousers and crop tops, gingham check on boxer-style shorts, polka dots patchworked on a zip-up with overextended sleeves.

Other patterns are created in collaboration with artist Minori Morata – these cyberpunk-style motifs depict futuristic machinery with a metallic sheen and mechanical aura. Shoes are in collaboration with “nir”, a brand known for reconstructing upcycled sneakers – the shoes are custom-made by hand with each pair being unique.

The show itself had an element of performance art – the name of the collection is “movement / circle” and models navigated through urban scaffolding in the venue, with a circular motion around and around. Models were cast by tomad, with some being selected as they actively “Tsubuyaku (tweet)” about themselves, and others being internet/street cast. Music, also under the direction of tomad, was created using dialoges between musician vq and Balmung designer Hachi.

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