Paul Smith Spring 2027 Menswear

Paul Smith Spring 2027 Menswear was presented at Milan Menswear Fashion Week in an intimate, salon-style show, proposing the idea that the best clothes are the ones you actually live in – and to hell with it if you get them dirty, that’s just part of the journey. The press release recalls Paul Smith’s holidays with his grandfather wading in the sea, his suit trousers rolled up to his knees; and an impromptu incident in Tuscany where he helped a local farmer with his fresh harvest of grapes, getting burgundy stains on his white linen suit – and you know those are never getting out! (Some people say white wine will do it, but I’ve never tried it, and honestly a Tuscany-tie-dye suit with a story behind it is much, much cooler.)

Smith’s contribution to fashion itself is also looked at here – he was one of the main designers leading the charge for more informal and relaxed suiting in the 1980s. The translation here is clear: waistcoats left open, a tie stuffed into a breast pocket, shirts untucked and unbuttoned, clothes hanging out of bags as if the wearer had to rush out of the house in the morning and will finish getting dressed in the car or at work.

It certainly doesn’t look sloppy though; it’s relaxed in that nice and comfy way like when you get home from work after eight hours staring at spreadsheets, you flomp onto the sofa, sinking into the cushions, throwing your head back with an ‘Ahhh’.

Getting into specifics of the Paul Smith Spring 2027 Menswear collection for a moment, the sweater vest in Look 12 worn with a matching neckerchief is one of the strongest looks in the show; the print in Look 17 reads as camouflage at first, but needs a closer look: it’s like what you get when you cross a Renaissance painting with a 1970s colour palette. I’d love to see it used more.

Sailor hats, charms hanging from buttonholes, belts with rabbits in relief on the buckles – the accessories and the details are considered and charismatic.

I know it’s a cliché to say it, but these are clothes waiting for you to live in them. Personally, I want a rabbit belt, a sweater vest and some of the 1970s Renaissance print so I can make some Spring 2027 memories of my own.

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