This is the last set of five designers that I’ve picked out as ‘Ones to Watch’ at London Fashion Week SS2024 (Set 1 here, Set 2 here). Most of these are very new brands, but I’ve also featured Pam Hogg who has been an established name since the 1980s.
17.09.2023 10:45 (Digital Schedule) Buerlangma
First up is Buerlangma, founded in 2020 in Beijing by QiQi Yuan and BoChao Yuan. I was at their AW2023 show in the photographer’s pit taking photos – the show began with a model seated with the audience unleashing a blood-curdling scream then getting up and walking the runway. This season, Buerlangma is on the digital schedule.
17.09.2023 12:00 Susan Fang
Susan Fang launched her brand in 2017 after graduating from Central Saint Martins. She was selected for Forbes 30 Under 30 in 2019 and 2020, and was also shortlisted for the LVMH Prize. Her collections focus on textile innovation and sustainability.[1] Images are from Vogue Runway.
17.09.2023 17:00 Yuhan Wang
Yuhan Wang studied graphic design in New York at the School of Visual Arts, and Fashion Design in London at Central Saint Martins. Her BA graduate collection was first runner-up of the L’Oréal Young Talent Award in 2016, and she has also been shortlisted for an LVMH prize, in 2020. She showed under Fashion East for three seasons (SS2019 – SS2020) and interned at JW Anderson and Oscar de la Renta.[2] Images are from Vogue Runway.
17.09.2023 21:00 Pam Hogg
I attended Pam Hogg’s AW2023 as a press photographer (below show photos are mine), where the backdrop featured flaming graphic and the text “They Burn Witches Don’t They?”. The collection featured her trademark fabrics and shapes – PVC, gold lurex, catsuits and studs.
Pam Hogg first gained notoriety at the infamous Blitz Club in London, later holding her first catwalk show in 1985. She also sang in bands that supported artists including Blondie and The Pogues, produced the fashion film ‘Accelator‘ featuring Siouxsie Sioux, and designed outfits for stars including Kylie Minogue, Beyoncé, and Madonna. She was awarded an honorary doctorate from Glasgow University and the Glasgow School of Art, becoming Dr Pam Hogg.[3] Images are my own.
18.09.2023 13:00 Chet Lo
Chet Lo, originally from New York, graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2020 with a BA in Knitwear. He showed collections at Fashion East and the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN scheme, receiving critical acclaim and being featured in Vogue, Dazed, and L’Officiel, and worn by SZA, Doja Cat, Dua Lipa and more.[4] Images are from Vogue Runway.
