On March 17th, news broke about a collaboration nobody expected: John Galliano at Zara. The Inditex-owned fast fashion retailer had signed Galliano to a two-year contract that would see him “re-author” the brand’s archives.[1] This is Galliano’s first return to fashion following his tenure at Maison Margiela, which culminated in the viral Spring 2024 Haute Couture show.
It’s not new for Zara to work with high fashion designers — the brand has collaborated with Narciso Rodriguez and Stefano Pilati in the past — however this particular partnership ties John Galliano at Zara for a two-year contract rather than just a one-off collection.
Galliano was at Maison Margiela for ten years, and before that at Dior for fourteen; the latter ending with Galliano being fired following a number of incidents including his arrest at a bar in Paris after allegedly insulting a Jewish woman and her Asian boyfriend.[2] The news of his appointment at Zara has caused quite a stir online — to put it mildly — with many calling it the death of fashion, a recession indicator, or a sign of desperation on the part of Galliano.
The extreme difference between couture and fast fashion has also been called out: Zara is reknowned for its extreme speed-to-market, this being its core competitive strategy. The brand is able to get its designs from concept to store shelves in just 2-3 weeks,[3] compared to 4-6 months (or more) for traditional retailers. This is possible for a number of reasons: the brand manufacturers a significant portion of its items locally,[4] rather than outsourcing to Asia. For items that are outsourced, Zara is known for its use of air freight — along with sea and road transport — for faster transportation, though it does not disclose specific details of its transportation methods. However it is worth noting that in 2020, 75% of the space at Zaragoza airport was assigned to Inditex.[5] The environmental impact of the use of air freight cannot be denied, and there are also reports of poor conditions for workers, with workers in Sao Paolo found to be working 16-19 hours per day.[6]
All other factors aside, it’s undeniable that John Galliano at Zara is a significant development in fashion: coming from the world of couture and moving into fast fashion. And it’s important to remember that Galliano is not the first designer to do so: Clare Waight Keller was artistic director of brands including Chloé and Givenchy before moving to Uniqlo, and Zac Posen has been the creative director of Gap and chief creative officer of Old Navy since 2024, having previously helmed his own label.
And of course, it’s worth mentioning the H&M designer collaborations, which have been generally well-received; these include collaborations with Viktor&Rolf (2006), Versace (2011), Balmain (2015), Giambattista Valli (2019), and Mugler (2023).
The clash of couture and fast fashion seen with John Galliano at Zara though, has left many with a bad taste in their mouth. Here are some memes and comments to sum it all up. (Note: We’ve included a range of ideas, memes, and comments from around the internet to capture the full conversation. Their inclusion doesn’t necessarily reflect the views of The Fashion Fold.)


























London College of Fashion alumna (PGCert Fashion Buying & Merchandising). 15 years in fashion across styling, buying & merchandising, trend forecasting, e-commerce, and marketing. Includes roles at Vivienne Westwood and multi-brand retail stocking 50+ brands including Adidas, Nike, and Puma.


