Warm, rich, and generally made for colder weather, amber fragrances are the cosiest category in the Dries Van Noten perfume collection. For floral fragrances, see Set 1 or go to Set 3 (aromatic) or set 4 (woody, leather, chypre). There are five fragrances to choose from in this set – four Eaux de Parfum and one Eau de Toilette – and each one tackles the category in a different way: spicy, herbal, chocolatey, and more. Amber fragrances get their warmth from the use of notes such as vanilla, amber, and sandalwood, but they don’t necessarily need to be sweet or gourmand – so there’s bound to be one to suit your taste. Just an aside: this category includes the bestselling Soie Malaquais.
While individual samples aren’t available, two sample sets include amber fragrances from this collection: the Floral Nomadic 3-Piece Set and the House Classics 4-Piece Set. The below image (click to enlarge) gives a quick overview to help you decide before getting into the amber fragrances themselves.
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Dries Van Noten Perfume Set 2: Amber Fragrances
Click each fragrance image to view a larger version to discover notes, year of release, concentration, and the perfumer behind the fragrance.
Camomille Satin: The Green, Herbal Vanilla
Camomille Satin is the green, herbal vanilla. It was developed by Julien Rasquinet and Paul Guerlain, two perfumers who also worked together to create Lustre by Amouage. Vanilla sits alongside chamomile, lavender, and galbanum – all green, herbaceous notes – along with petit grain bigarade, which adds a green, citrus lift. Rose and orange blossom add a rich floral tone, with orange blossom also lending a creamy, lactonic quality to the blend.
What reviewers are saying:
- “Not a typical gourmand – the sweetness of vanilla is balanced with herbal and green notes”
- “A heaven of chamomile, greens, and vanilla sweetness – you won’t find a scent like it”
- “Sweet, spicy, and lactonic”
Shop now: Camomille Satin or get a sample: House Classics Set
Alternative to try: Burberry – Goddess Intense: different herbs in the mix; vanilla is paired with lavender instead
Havana Gold: The Spicy, Tobacco Amber
Havana Gold is the spicy, tobacco amber, opening with an unusual mix of liquorice and star anise before cinnamon takes over in the heart. From there it moves into tobacco and leather, with cypriol giving a woody, smoky character and roasted tonka adding a warm, spicy, tobacco-caramel richness. Best left for night-time, this is a potent fragrance with exceptional longevity. Havana Gold was created by Jordi Fernández, who also developed Montblanc Explorer and Nishane Meant to be Seen.
What reviewers are saying:
- “Easily lasts for 10 hours”
- “Take this to the family party and sit with the uncles and their cigars”
- “The compliments this gets is crazy – one of my most complimented perfumes and I have 200 perfumes to date”
Shop now: Havana Gold
Alternative to try: Initio Side Effect: also features cinnamon and tobacco, with rum instead of leather
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Soie Malaquais: The Chocolatey-Smooth Amber
Named after the silk dresses of the Parisian boutique on Quai Malaquais, Soie Malaquais is the chocolatey-smooth one of the five amber fragrances, and the bestseller of the entire Dries Van Noten perfume line. The bottle design draws from Dutch Delftware porcelain and a set of limited-edition bottles was created in 2026 with Dutch artist Bouke de Vries. The fragrance was developed by Marie Salamagne, who has also created Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic and Constantinople for Penhaligon’s. Warm and nutty thanks to the chestnut base, it can veer sweet for some due to the blackcurrant, but overall it’s sophisticated and rich, and often praised for how luxurious it smells.
What reviewers are saying:
- “Feels refined and luxurious”
- “Velvety, nutty, and creamy”
- “The chestnut and rose together are just beautiful to me and I can smell the smoothness of the silk note”
Shop now: Soie Malaquais or get a sample: Floral Set • House Classics Set
Alternative to try: Ferragamo – Amo: another fragrance by Marie Salamagne using blackcurrant and a floral heart
Sur Ma Peau: The Animalic, Citrus Amber
The name translates to “on my skin” – and that’s exactly what Sur Ma Peau is: a skin scent, designed to sit close and meld with the wearer’s chemistry, which is why it is described as animalic, citrus, or both depending on the wearer. It was created by Quentin Bisch, who also developed Fleur du Mal within the Dries Van Noten perfume collection – read about it in Set 1 Floral Fragrances. Despite being an Eau de Toilette, it’s praised for exceptional longevity on the skin. Citrus top notes contrast with a sweeter base of vanilla and tonka bean, while vetiver adds a grounding, earthy element. Orange flower accord, with its mix of citrus and sweetness, ties everything together as the perfect heart note.
What reviewers are saying:
- “Quite potent for an Eau de Toilette – the bottle can last a lifetime”
- “An underlying animalic tone, perhaps cumin too”
- “An older, more sophisticated sister of Bal d’Afrique“
Shop now: Sur Ma Peau
Alternative to try: Narciso Rodriguez – Musc Noir Rose: another amber skin scent
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Vanille Camouflage: The Non-Gourmand Vanilla
Vanille Camouflage is the woody, non-gourmand vanilla – perfect for those of us who love the smell of vanilla but can’t stand it when it goes too sweet. It was created by Alexandra Monet, who also gave us Gucci A Floral Verse and 4711 Vibrant Musk. While vanilla so often turns sticky and sugary, here it’s fresh, green, and woody. Cypress (woody and dry), lentisque (fresh), ylang ylang (slightly sour) and fig (earthy and green) all keep it from veering into gourmand territory.
Two vanillas sit in the base: bourbon absolute provides a caramelised, slightly boozy depth; Tahitian vanilla adds cherry blossom, almond, and a slight creaminess. Together with the lactonic fig accord, they give the fragrance a soft, creamy quality.
What reviewers are saying:
- “If there were something in this world that smells better than this I wouldn’t believe it”
- “If you enjoy Debaser or Eau Duelle you will likely enjoy this”
- “A very unique fragrance: you really have to love green and fresh scents”
Shop now: Vanille Camouflage or get a sample: Floral Set
Alternative to try: Cartier Must de Cartier Gold: a non-gourmand vanilla using galbanum and green leaves
Dries Van Noten Perfume Set 2: Amber Fragrances
Five ambers, five different directions: proof that this category has more range than given credit for. Soie Malaquais is the safe-bet bestseller for good reason, but if you want something more unexpected, Vanille Camouflage and Camomille Satin show that vanilla doesn’t have to be sugary sweet. Havana Gold brings spicy tobacco and Sur Ma Peau wears like a second skin. If you’re not sure where to start, the House Classics Sample Set is the easiest way to try a few before committing to a full bottle.
For the rest of the fragrances, see Set 1 (floral), Set 3 (aromatic), and Set 4 (woody, leather, chypre).
Note: This post was originally written in May 2023, when the Dries Van Noten perfume collection launched with twelve fragrances – ten Eaux de Parfum and two Eaux de Toilette. More fragrances were added in 2024 and 2025, and this post has been created to reflect those additions, along with other articles edited and added in the series.
London College of Fashion alumna (PGCert Fashion Buying & Merchandising). 15 years in fashion across styling, buying & merchandising, trend forecasting, e-commerce, and marketing. Includes roles at Vivienne Westwood and multi-brand retail stocking 50+ brands including Adidas, Nike, and Puma.