For the Acne Studios Fall 2025 Menswear collection, creative director Jonny Johansson pushes the concept of menswear archetypes, deconstructing traditional codes while maintaining their essential character. Navigating the tension between formality and leisure, the collection offers a sophisticated interpretation of the multifaceted masculine identity.
The collection’s palette juxtaposes tailoring-inspired navy and asphalt grey against rich vintage tones of deep brown, rust, and burgundy. These are punctuated by deliberate injections of vibrant reds, oranges, and denim blue, while worn-in marl grey and soft pink echo athletic influences.
Silhouettes emphasize physicality through exaggerated triangular forms and strategic exposure – low-slung trousers paired with cropped tops reveal the midriff in a subtle subversion of conventional masculinity. The tailoring exhibits dual personalities: either precisely cropped or flowing with ‘80s power-dressing excess. A notable introduction is the 2010, a new 5-pocket classic bootcut denim silhouette that also appears in leather.
Traditional menswear textiles undergo transformation: tailoring flannel, supersized corduroy, and checked wool in mouliné yarns coexist with plush merino and cashmere layers. Denim, the brand’s foundational material, receives experimental treatments including fil coupé monogram and trompe-l’oeil prints, while rigid raw denim is a nod to the brand’s roots.
The push-and-pull of tradition vs disruption extends also to footwear and accessories, where brogues are deconstructed and adorned industrial studs, and a loafer is adorned with the Acne Studios logo plaque. Low-top sneakers are reminiscent of ballet pumps and vintage boxing sneakers, while a bonnet is inspired by a vintage flight hat, and a large leather bag is a modern take on the briefcase.
The Acne Studios Fall 2025 Menswear collection was presented at Paris Menswear Fashion Week on January 22nd, 2025. Photography courtesy of Acne Studios.
Collection
- Brand: Acne Studios
- Season: Fall 2025 Menswear
- By: Jonny Johansson
- Type: Menswear
- Event: Paris Menswear Fashion Week
- Date: January 22, 2025
Media
- Photo Credit: Courtesy of Acne Studios
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London College of Fashion alumna (PGCert Fashion Buying & Merchandising). 15 years in fashion across styling, buying & merchandising, trend forecasting, e-commerce, and marketing. Includes roles at Vivienne Westwood and multi-brand retail stocking 50+ brands including Adidas, Nike, and Puma.
