Ann Demeulemeester, one of the Antwerp Six designers (along with Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Marina Yee) set up her company with her husband Patrick Robyn in 1985, producing her first collecton for AW1987. In 1992 she began showing in Paris, gaining a cult following for her dark, romantic designs that often referenced menswear and military outfits. Demeulemeester stepped down from the label in 2013, being replaced by Sébastien Meunier.
There is a new creative director for SS2024 – menswear designer Stefano Gallici is replacing Ludovic de Saint Sernin who left the label in May after just six months. I really hope the collection will be a good one – I’ve been following the brand for well over 10 years and I feel like it’s been going the same way as Helmut Lang: once the founder stepped down the magic was lost and never recaptured again no matter who was brought on next.
Images are from Vogue Runway and I chose AW2010, which is my favourite Ann Demeulemeester collection, and one of my favourite collections overall.